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Champagne Bonnaire Tradition L'Esprit du Temps 2 Champagne Bonnaire Tradition L'Esprit du Temps
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Domaine de la taille aux loups, by Jacky Blot: very good and modern Vouvrays and Montlouis sur Loire.

Domaine de la Taille au Loups - jacky Blot

Jacky Blot produces dry, semi-dry and sweet wines. The wines of Vouvray as well as those of Montlouis-sur-Loire come from a single grape variety, which nevertheless carries two names: chenin blanc, also called pineau de Loire. This is a rather demanding grape variety, just like Jacky Blot! His history and character make him an atypical winemaker. Twenty years ago, Jacky Blot took vineyards back to Montlouis to begin his constant innovation business. Counter-current, he used plowing and hand harvesting even though these practices were still unconventional.

It helped to leave the young wolves of Montlouis out of the shadow of Vouvray, thanks to superb wines, always demanding. The vineyard now has 25 hectares of white chenin, on the banks of the Loire and Cher on limestone slopes sloping towards the south.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate : Jacky Blot’s distinctive barrique-vinified, leesy-rich, and occasionally to my palate slightly obtrusively wooded Chenins are not without controversy. If you especially prize clarity, refreshment, and shimmering intimations of things mineral, these will not be your first choice among Loire Chenin Blancs, but his two latest collections certainly confirm the intriguing complexity and textural allure that Blot’s Chenins can offer. (For a report on Blot’s reds, see under “Domaine de la Butte” in my parallel report on “King Cabernet.”) Blot reports having picked ahead of most growers in 2009 and later than most in 2008. Several of the totally dry, high acid 2008s (which Blot compares with 2002) struck me as having an especially awkward relationship with their wood, and it’s possible that their gross chemistry in itself encouraged both greater extraction of flavors from the barrel and a tendency for those flavors to stand out against a relatively spare background. “I have an obsession with dry wine,” admits Blot, and that extends to not labeling as sec wines whose residual sugar is unnoticeable, as well as to occasionally postponing racking in an effort to let the yeasts eat up every possible gram.

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