Domaine Stéphane Ogier Saint-Joseph "Le Passage" rouge 2017

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Domaine Stéphane Ogier Saint-Joseph "Le Passage" rouge 2017 :

Guide Bettane + Desseauve 2020 (août 2019) : 15,5/20. Un joli tanin poivré, un fruité noir, une bouche corsée mais aux tanins bien gainés, un vin bien dans son appellation. Fourchette de dégustation : 2018 - 2027.
Accords mets et vins : blanquette de veau, poulet rôti, steak tartare, pintade, perdrix, pot au feu. 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (Joe Czerwinski, déc. 2019) : 90/100. The 2017 Saint Joseph le Passage offers plenty of juicy, dark fruit aromas and flavors. Loaded with blueberries, it doesn't seem to have the complexity I'd hoped it would ultimately show, but it remains a fun, fruit-forward wine for drinking over the next 5-6 years. It's medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a lip-smacking finish. Drink date 2019-2025.

My visit to Domaine Stéphane Ogier occurred the week before many of the 2017s were to be bottled, giving a good view of the wines before they went through the trauma of bottling and (potentially) shut down. It's a vintage that Ogier likes. "We can feel it's a warm year like 2009, but we don't have the powerful tannins like in 2015. Seventeen was more balanced in terms of weather.… It's in the style of 2016 but more charming, more finesse, with a step up in terms of density and intensity over '16." As Ogier owns numerous parcels across the entire slope of Côte Rôtie, barrel-tasting here is challenging but fun and instructive, with Ogier bouncing from barrel to barrel, climbing high into the stacks to pull various samples from his different lieux-dits. The oak seems toned down in recent years, or perhaps the fruit is more assertive. "We could say God is with us the last four years," said Ogier.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (Joe Czerwinski, oct. 2018) : 90-93/100. I tasted parts of two components that will be blended together to make the 2017 Saint Joseph. One was lighter and more perfumed, with black cherry fruit and supple, silky tannins, while the other was sturdier, with black olive flavors and hints of crushed stone.

Fiche technique rédigée par le domaine :

Cépage : 100 % Syrah

Age des vignes : 30 ans.

Terroir : granites décomposés.

Localisation : Malleval.

Vendanges : Manuelles. Tri à la parcelle et table de tri à l'entrée de la cuverie.

Culture : raisonnée, travail partiel du sol à cheval.

Vinifications : Égrapage et macération à froid en cuves inox
thermo-régulées. Levures indigènes.

Elevage : 18 mois en barrique, dont 10% de bois neuf.

Capacité de vieillissement : 5 / 10 ans.